Simple Furniture Designs
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child’s wood stool
#53 Simple tile topped coffee table
Monday, November 21, 2011
I just finished this 16” high x 24” square coffee table. I used 12x12 “rectified” floor tiles. If you use tiles (other infills like wood, metal, cork tiles, laminate or stone would also work) the “rectified” part is important since using this type of tile will give you straight, true, and square edges that will fit together nicely. I don’t think grouted joints will work well for this design. I gave the wood (pine) a clear natural finish. It’s a bit more rustic and informal. A painted frame will give you more options to coordinate the color with the tile. The selection of “rectified” tiles is somewhat limited so choose the tile first. The size/thickness of the tile will also determine the dimensions of the table. So that’s your starting point. Except for the inside cleats, the frame is made with overlapping 1x4’s. Construction is simple as long as you keep everything square. I had to make the frame twice to get the best assembly procedure.
Assembly notes:
Step #1: Check the tile colors, texture and square to get the best match as a group: then turn them over and mark their positions on the back.
Step #2: Cut the wood deck panel of 1/2” to 3/4” ply or MDF. Now here’s the trick to save you lots of trouble: cut the square deck panel just 1/16” or so shy of the full dimension of the two tiles. The cleat attached to the side will overlap the gap when you apply the side and correct for any discrepancies. Drill the finger hole (to push up a tile) now.
Step #3: Placing the wood deck on the tiles will now give you the dimension of the notch on the side pieces as well as the step down on the legs. Don’t forget to add the 1/4” to the step dimension since the longer of the two leg pieces sticks up that much above the side.
Step #4: Cut the leg pieces, but cut them a little long. After attach the two leg pieces at right angles you can then cut them to length. I made a little jig to locate the shorter leg section when glueing/nailing on to the longer one so I only had to make one cut. Keep’m square.
Step #5: Cut the sides and notch them to clear the leg. This notch need not be too accurate since it will not be seen and doesn't add much structure. Don’t forget the sides pass beyond the leg on the overlap by 1/4” so cut them long enough.
Step #6: Set a side – edge on the work surface – by the stacked tiles and deck to locate the cleat. Making a small jig so you can nail/glue the cleat onto the side while on the flat. Again, give yourself a little room at the junction of the leg and cleat so leg can slip in easily.
Step #7: Square/flush the deck up to two sides of the tiles. Glue on the side/cleat assembly keeping the notched end flush with the adjacent edge and side. The opposite two sides of the deck will be a little shy of the tile edge. When you add the other sides the cleat will bridge this gap. Keep the side up snug against the tiles and check to make sure the ply/MDF is flat against the tiles. You may have to put some weight on it. Make sure the side are square to the deck.
Step #8: Once all the sides are attached to the deck and flush to edge of the tiles, you can lift up the deck, mark the tile locations and remove the tiles. Set the deck back down on 1/4” spacers to miss the corners where the 1/4” leg extension will come through.
Step #9: On go the legs. I used glue, nails may not even necessary. Use clamps to draw the legs and sides together and keep the legs square.
Step #10: Finish as you wish, but be sure you seal the top of the deck in case any spilled liquids gets through.
Some variation:
